The aarti begins as the light goes, and the steps are full well before that. Arriving forty-five minutes early is the difference between watching the ceremony and watching the backs of other visitors.

Three ways to watch

From the steps, close and loud. From a boat, quieter and cooler, with the lamps reflected in the water. Or from a terrace above the ghat, which is the calmest option if crowds are difficult for you.

Photographs, gently

Cameras are welcome, flashes are not. Keep tripods off the steps, and put the phone down for the final few minutes — the ceremony is better remembered than recorded.